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Use Patterns to Reinforce Your Walls

Use Patterns to Reinforce Your Walls

#Patterns #Reinforce #Walls

“Slant 3D”

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Forget tweaking slicer settings; we’re focusing on enhancing your designs directly. Learn how to strategically increase wall thickness and incorporate specific patterns like holes to reinforce your 3D printed parts effectively. This guide is perfect for 3D printing designers and professionals looking to improve the durability and reliability of their prints.

#3dprinting #3dprintingcommunity #designfor3dprinting #cad #shapr3d #ad

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39 Comments

  1. 1. The slicer settings takes 5 seconds where as adding the holes takes about 40-60 seconds. Not bad but slicer still wins.
    2. The 40-60 seconds of adding holes only accounts for pure cylindrical pieces, not more complex ones that adds more time to do this, even a rectangle would take 3x more time. It would take exponentially more time on even more complex parts
    3. The slicer settings are intrinsic to the design!
    3.

  2. The main problem is that they print it in one piece
    Best way to have a rigid structure like a long tube is tu cut it into 4 parts over the whole length them print half upright and half flat on the printbed.
    This cancels the breaking of the line bond better then just making it thicc

  3. THIS will be a slicer setting soon though! Rodification plugin for prusaslicer/bambustudio! Also fin supports! The fin should have your business card info on it and be a phone stand so you dont have to throw away your supports

  4. Could also recommend some parts be printed horizontal rather then vertical depending on the application. Layer lines also make parts weaker.

  5. This guy doesn't sense to push top notch content. His ideas are always like "yeah, that makes sense" and yet one can't come up with those!! Good stuff all round.

  6. I get the point but why? I have to use the slicer anyway, then I can also make the walls thicker. So I don’t want to disagree right now, but I’m seriously curious: why should I do it this way and what advantage do I get from it?

  7. firstly youve done nothing but weaken the part by adding a bunch of holes without increasing wall infill, and secondly you've exponentially increased the print time.

    you physically cannot get any stronger than a completely solid rod, adding holes inside does not increase strength, you're only increasing print time and reducing surface area.

    you're also spending a lot more time designing the parts, which is easy for a rod but start making something more complex and it becomes a pointless time consumption

  8. for 99% of your prints, use the slicer. This is only useful for the niche parts that really need that extra strength. Also, don't be afraid to use vitamins. I add holes for screws to strengthen my parts all the time.

  9. I like your videos but this is just plain dumb. Just add more perimeter walls. That’s what the option is there for. This is just going to make 3D modelling super long and printing time will also be longer since you are change direction more often.

  10. You guys dont understand what he's trying to do. He is trying to make a 3D model that is easily scalable and most importantly compatible with MASS PRODUCTION 3D printing. It seems OBVIOUS to me that a mass production item is going go be different than what a hobbyist does.

  11. Guys, this does not take "hours more" to model. It will definitely take longer to print though. Maybe consider using a material with stronger layer adhesion? There are so much better materials for strength than PLA. I've been playing around with PCTG, it's has far superior layer adhesion

  12. Cura allows changing the wall thickness (and other settings) in particular areas of the model where it overlaps a user-specified volume.

    Just google "Cura Modify Settings for Overlaps".

    Other slicers probably also have some similar functionality.

  13. Your layers are still going to be the weak link. Print the handle flat and the ax head would act like a vice to keep it from delaminating. Or print an insert in a different orientation.

  14. I disagree with the comments. This is really useful advice if you need thick walls in part of you 3D printed part and thin walls elsewhere.

    Buttttt, if you need thick walls everywhere, just use slicer settings haha

  15. Just use the damm settings. it’s easy to add tubes to a tube, but when you start making real parts this will drastically increase the time it takes to model, with essentially the same results.

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